Ale Lang Syne

deus

My New Year’s Eve column from the Courier Mail. I am filling in while regular beer writer Rory Gibson is on leave.
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In tougher economic times the phrase ‘champagne living on a beer budget’ is frequently used to describe ways to continue living well while tightening the belt a little.

While there is an implied slap to beer in saying that, it is also very accurate. With beer you can always drink exceptionally well at a fraction of the cost of more expensive grape juice.

What’s more, New Year’s Eve is the perfect time to discover the joys of living the high life by enjoying the true champagne of beers.

Deus Brut des Flandres from the Brouwerij Bosteels in Belgium undergoes a production process as careful, lengthy and complex as vintage Champagnes costing many times the price.

This Biere de Champagne is brewed in Belgium where it undergoes primary fermentation for a month and then further tank conditioning before being sent to Epernay in the Champagne region of France. Here it is fermented a third time in champagne bottles and cellared for up to a year on the yeast.

From here the bottles follow the method champenoise processes of riddling, remuage and degorgement, through which the bottles are gradually turned and upended before the yeast is extracted and the bottle is corked and capped.

As for taste, we are worlds away from Crown Lager as a celebratory tipple. It is impossible to describe how this beer tastes without borrowing a little from the wine expert’s vocabulary. The aroma is flowery and herbal, with – dare I say it – hints of thyme and allspice. For its strength the alcohol is warming but not over powering.

If you don’t tell your guests that they are drinking beer, there are few clues when you serve it. The bottle and label are identical to an expensive Champagne. In the glass the beer is pale with a head – or in more elegant champagne speak, mousse – that lasts longer than for champers, but the bubbles are the same perfect little pearls in the glass.

If you are going to ring in the New Year with beer instead of bubbles the first thing you need to do is jettison the six-pack mentality that is often related to beer. This is the notion that a beer is only good if it can be consumed in quantity.

When people first try Deus their reaction is often, “wow, I really like that…but I couldn’t drink a lot of it”.

And nor should you want to, or need to. At an alcohol content of 11.5%, this is not a beer to quaff while watching the cricket. It is one to be sipped and savoured while enjoying great conversation and company, especially on a night of celebration and reflection such as the ringing in of the New Year.

You’ll find it in better bottleshops at around $50 per 750ml bottle. Sure, that’s about the cost of a carton of some beers but it is also exceptionally cheap for a bottle of quality imported bubbles, which it is more akin to.

Live large in 2001, even if you are confined to a beer budget.

Happy New Year!

Beer and Christmas

Here are my recommendations for those who didn’t have a pen handy, as well as some leads on where to get them if your local doesn’t carry a wide range of beers.

Oysters

Porter or Stout. Darker beers – often associated the very dry and astringent roastiness of Guinness , most actually have chocolate, coffee and liquorice hints to them that work really well with the saltiness of good fresh oysters.

  • Coopers Best Extra Stout
  • Bridge Road Robust Porter
  • Meantime London Porter

Prawns, bugs and crab.

Lighter style – but flavoursome – lagers with the emphasis on the sweetness of the malt rather than bitterness of hops. German hefeweizen (cloudy wheat beer) or Belgian witbier.

  • Stone & Wood Lager
  • Burleigh Hef

Baked ham.

Strong malty German lagers and Belgian-style strong golden ales. Rauchbier may be too smoky but the mild smokiness of a smoked hefeweizen may work very nicely.

  • Bluesky Smoked Wheat.
  • Holgate Big Reg

Turkey.

Belgian-style strong golden ale is number one pick, though a biere de garde or spicy saison would work nicely too and suit our warm climate.

  • Duvel
  • Bridge Road Chevalier Biere de Garde
  • Otway Bier de Garde

Chocolate.

Porters and stouts, not to mention chocolate stouts work well, but a Belgian strong dark ale such as Chimay and – if you can lay your hands on some – Trois Pistoles.

Fruit cake.

Porters and stouts again, or a good spiced Christmas beer.

www.adelaidebiershop.com.au

www.internationalbeershop.com.au

Isn’t ‘proposition’ something that drunks do?

Even though most global breweries kill the essential elements that give historic beer provenance, I understand what they mean when they say a beer has it. I also understand that a beer can be said to have “an authentic Czech taste”. But what exactly is a beer’s genuine and distinctive proposition?